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Two Ingredient White Chocolate Mousse

Michael Klements
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Two Ingredient White Chocolate Mousse

This easy white chocolate mousse recipe is made using only two ingredients and takes about 5 minutes to make. Although the preparation time is only 5 minutes, allow for about two and a half hours to give the chocolate time to cool down and to set. These mousse cups keep in the refrigerator for up to three days.

What You Will Need To Make The White Chocolate Mousse

Makes about 6 servings. Preparation time 5mins, setting time 150mins.

You Will Need:

  • 200g (7oz) White Chocolate
  • 1 1/2 Cups of Heavy Cream

How To Make The Mousse

Place the chocolate in a microwaveable bowl. Melt the chocolate by microwaving on high for 15 second intervals, stirring in between until all of the chocolate is smooth and there are no lumps. Allow the melted chocolate to cool to room temperature for about 15 to 20 minutes.

With a electric beater, whisk the cream until thick and soft peaks form. Fold half of the cream into the melted chocolate and gently combine. Add the second half and again fold in gently until the mixture is combined.

Divide the mixture into cups and set in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Garnish with mint and berries or grated chocolate. Use grated dark chocolate for a contrasting topping.

Finish this mousse off by serving it in a decorative dessert cup with jelly.

DIY Hacks, Complete Your Projects Quicker & Easier

Michael Klements
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DIY Hacks, Complete Your Projects Quicker & Easier

These simple hacks make doing your DIY projects around the house quicker and easier. Some of these ideas will help you with a single project and others can be used to make all of your projects easier.

DIY Soda Can Tab Picture Hanger

Make a simple picture or mirror hanger  with a soda can tab, its strong, functional and doesn’t get any cheaper.

Magnet On Hammer

Attach a magnet to the base of your hammer to make a clever storage place for the nails you are working with.

Cover Up Holes

Use a wax crayon to cover up small nail holes in wood or on the wall, you’ll hardly notice them with this 5 second trick.

pegboard bottle holders

Recycle old soda bottles to keep screws, nuts, bolts etc stored neatly on your peg board.

gluegun detail work

Modify your glue gun with a ball inflation needle to get a thin bead of glue for detail work.

wrench caddy

Use a carabiner clip as a useful wrench caddy to keep your wrenches in order and in one place.

battery caddy

Make a battery dispenser to keep your new batteries organised. Mount it on your wall in your workshop for easy access and to keep your batteries organised.

remove tool rust

Remove rust on your tools by soaking them overnight in vinegar and salt. The vinegar and salt help to remove the rust and prevent the tool from rusting further.

extension cord holder

Install a rope hook near your power outlets to ensure that your power tools don’t become unhooked while you are using them. Perfect for the lawn mower or edge trimmer.

plastic bottle cutter

Make a plastic bottle cutter and recycle your old plastic bottles into strong plastic rope.

credit card glue spreader

Recycle an old credit card and turn it into a handy glue spreader for your woodwork projects.

Once you’ve mastered these DIY hacks, you’ll want to put them to good use, have a look at our 10 weekend projects to seriously add value to your home, or if your have a bit more time, here are 8 more involved projects to increase your home’s value.

Repair A Car Tyre Puncture

Michael Klements
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2
Repair A Car Tyre Puncture

A flat tyre on your car is one of the inconveniences of driving, fortunately it is a quick and relatively easy problem to fix. A puncture smaller than 7mm (1/4”) can be repaired with a plug, gashes or wide punctures should be repaired by a tyre dealer or the tyre may have to be replaced.

puncture repair kit

Tools Required For This Repair:

  • Car Jack
  • Wheel Spanner
  • Tyre Puncture Repair Kit
  • Soapy Water – Optional if the leak can’t be found

Firstly loosen the wheel nuts before you jack up the vehicle. You do this before jacking up the vehicle so that the vehicle’s weight prevents the wheel from turning when you turn the spanner. Do not remove any of the nuts at this stage, just loosen them about a quarter of a turn.

Once the nuts have been loosened, you will need to jack up the vehicle. This should be done on a hard and level surface with the hand or parking brake applied and the vehicle in gear or in park (in the case of an automatic). As an additional safety measure, stop blocks can be used on the non lifted wheels to ensure that the car remains stationary during jacking. Most vehicles have jacking pads underneath the vehicle on the door side of each wheel arch right near where the wheel arch begins. Check the vehicle’s service manual for details on the jacking points if you are not sure.

Loosen and remove the nuts. Once the nuts are removed, pull the wheel off of the wheel hub. You now need to find the puncture. Re-inflate the tyre using an air compressor or pump, a bicycle pump will also work as a last resort. If there is a fast leak, you will be able to hear the escaping air making a hissing sound. If the leak is a slow leak and is not immediately obvious, mix up a solution of dish soap and warm water. Carefully go around the perimeter of the tyre and apply the soapy water, the hole will cause bubbles to form in the soapy water on top of the puncture.

bubbles on tyre leak

If there is a nail, screw or other protruding object in the tyre, remove it using a pliers.

nail in tyre

Clean and open up the hole with the rasp tool included in the tyre kit. This is done by repeatedly inserting and removing the tool in a filing manner.

Thread a plug into the insertion tool. This can be tricky as the plug is usually very sticky. Squeeze one end flat and then force it through the eye on the insertion tool. If your puncture repair kit came with glue or rubber cement then apply this to the plug now, it will assist with lubricating the plug as it is inserted and will extend the life of the repair. Use the insertion tool to force the plug into the tyre, there should be about 10cm (1/2”) of the plug protruding from the tyre.

puncture repair

Inflate the tyre to the recommended pressure and retest the repaired area with soapy water. There should be no formation of soap bubbles around the repair. If the repair is leaking then either try adding some more rubber cement or remove the plug and start again.

Position the wheel back on the wheel hub with the studs or holes aligned with the holes on the rim. Thread the nuts back onto the hub and tighten them with your fingers. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground and then tighten the nuts to the torque specified in the service manual.

The tyre repair should last around 30 000km (18 000 miles) before the tyre will need to be replaced.

DIY Designer Mirror

Michael Klements
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0
DIY Designer Mirror

A well placed large mirror becomes a feature in a room, giving it depth brightness and a more open feeling. Large mirrors work well at the end of a corridor, behind an item or furniture such as a couch or headboard or over a side console with a vase or tall décor in front of it.

For This Project You’ll Need:

  • Glass Mirror (To Suite Your Size)
  • 63x19mm (2 ½” x ¾”) Pine (Length To Suite Your Size)
  • 17mm (3/4”) Pine Half Rounds
  • 1 Can Black Spray Paint
  • 1 Pack of Two Part Epoxy
  • 2 Picture Hanging Hooks
  • Wood Glue
  • Mitre Box or Electric Mitre Saw
  • Dremel Multi Tool + Sanding Attachment
  • Staple Gun – Optional

First measure out the size of the mirror you’d like to make. I used 63x19mm (2 ½” x ¾”) pine wood for the frame. Allow for a 10mm (0.4”) mirror overlap onto the frame for the epoxy to set on.

mitre box cutting

Cut the pine at 45° with the inside edge (short side) of the sides 20mm (0.8”) shorter than your mirror dimensions using an electric mitre saw or a mitre box and handheld saw.  The 20mm (0.8”) will give you 10mm (0.4”) overlap on each side of the frame to epoxy onto the mirror.

Now glue the frame together. A corner clamp comes in handy to press the glued faces together and keep the edges of the frame square. Alternately put glue on the edges, press them together, ensure that they are square and then use a staple gun to staple along the back edge of the joint to keep it together while the glue dries. Do not staple along the front edge as these staples will be visible when the mirror is hanging.

frame layout

When the frame joints are dry, place the frame over some old newspaper and begin spraying the back of the frame. Pay particular attention to the edges. Although the back of the frame will be against the wall, the inside back edge of the frame which is epoxied onto the glass will be reflected in the mirror and show up as a light brown border right around the mirror and on the edges of the trim.

Once the back of the frame is painted and dry, paint the front of the frame.

mirror face down

The frame can then be attached to the mirror. Lay the frame down front first on a large work surface where you can get around all of the sides. Next lay the mirror face down on top of the frame. Make sure that the mirror is in the centre of the frame. Mix up some two part epoxy and begin epoxying along the edges. There does not need to be a continuous epoxy seam along the entire edge, a dot or line every 5-10cm (0.2”- 0.4”) is sufficient. Make a good epoxy seam along the edges near the corners. Leave the epoxy to cure as indicated on the packaging.

epoxied corners

Now turn the mirror over. Use 17mm (3/4”) pine half rounds. Size two rectangles or squares which proportionally fit into your frame. Again, cut the edges at 45° such that they join together neatly to form a frame corner. Spray the back and front of the individual pieces. When the paint is sufficiently dry, epoxy the pieces in their rectangular shape on the mirrored surface. It may help to plot out your design with a permanent marker beforehand so that the sections are aligned and square. Excess epoxy is difficult to get off of the glass afterwards so use it sparingly. Allow the rectangle sections to cure before starting on the straight pieces.

epoxied moulding

For the straight pieces, measure the distance between the edge of the half rounds and the frame. Add on half of the width of the half round and make a square cut. Use a Dremel sanding tool to round the underside of the straight half round where it meets the rectangular sections such that a neat overlap is formed. Now spray the front and back of the straight edges, allow to dry and then epoxy them in place.

picture hanging hook

To hang the mirror, screw in two brass or steel picture mounting hooks about two thirds of the way up the back vertical sides of the frame. Do not use picture hanging wire on a very large mirror as the wire places additional side loads on the frame which it is not able to take. The sides of the frame will collapse inwards when the mirror is hung and the glass will break. Alternately picture hanging hooks can be fitted to the vertical sides or the horizontal top edge of the frame.

completed mirror

Using Pop Rivets, Stable & Long Lasting Joints

Michael Klements
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0
Using Pop Rivets, Stable & Long Lasting Joints

Pop rivets are useful for joining sheet metal or thin materials together. A well installed pop rivet provides a stable joint and is not easily removed. The primary advantage in using rivets is that a strong and secure joint can be made without access to the rear of the joint, unlike with a bolted joint where you would need access to the nut in order to secure the joint.

What You Need To Install Pop Rivets

How To Install Pop Rivets

 

pop riveting

There are two important dimensions to consider when choosing a pop rivet, the diameter of the rivet section and its length. The rivet should fit snugly in the drilled holes and should protrude through the materials being riveted such that the head of the pin and a small section of the rivet sticks out on the other side.

Choose a rivet with a large enough diameter to secure the load it needs to bear and one who’s length is slightly longer than the total thickness of the materials which you are going to be joining.

Once you have selected a rivet, you need to drill a hole for the rivet to seat in. Use a drill bit slightly larger than the diameter of the rivet. The rivet should freely slide into the hole but should not be loose.

The rivet is then installed using riveting tongs.

rivet tongs

Riveting tongs are used to pull the pin through the rivet and expand its diameter in order to secure the materials. Insert the pin of the rivet into the tongs, the handles should then be compressed until the pin breaks off inside the rivet, leaving the head of the pin in the back end.

The rivet is now installed. Provided the loading is not high enough to deform the rivet, it will remain in place and secure indefinitely. If you have trouble with rivets working loose, it is likely that they are under sized. Replace the rivets with larger diameter ones for a more secure and longer lasting installation.

How To Remove Pop Rivets

Rivets are removed by drilling them out with an electric drill and a metal drill bit. The drill bit should be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in which the rivet is secured. You only need to drill the head off the rivet, after which the back end of the rivet can be pushed out of the back of the hole.

 

Wiring A Plug

Michael Klements
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0
Wiring A Plug

Wiring a plug is relatively easy once you have identified the wires by their color. Household plugs around the world have either two or three wires, the two main wires being live and neutral and the third optional wire being the earth wire.

The common wire colors for each of these are:

  • Earth: Green and yellow striped, green and brown striped or green
  • Live: Red, brown or white
  • Neutral: Blue or black

When opening the plug, there are letters marking each of the two or three terminals. These are E for earth (usually at the center top of the top), L for live and N for neutral.

stripped wire
Properly Stripped Wire

Use a wire stripper to cut off the end of the insulation on the wire to reveal the copper. Twist the copper gently together so that there are no stray strands and then insert the end into the screw terminal. Screw the terminal clamp down onto the exposed copper such that the insulation is not too far exposed. Screw both or all three wires into their respective terminals then screw cable clamp over the main cable insulation. Finally screw or clip the plug back together, depending on the plug type.

south african plug
South African Plug
american plug
American Plug
Note: Check with you local authorities on the regulations regarding doing your own electrical work. In some areas it is illegal to conduct electrical work in your home without certification.

​ Hang A Picture Or Mirror

Michael Klements
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1
​ Hang A Picture Or Mirror

Hanging pictures, mirrors, even mirrors cut to size and art around your home adds height to each room and gives them a personal touch.

The first decision to make is whether to put in a nail or screw to hang the picture. Both can be used in either masonry or wood and plaster board walls however screws take quite a bit longer to install in masonry walls. The advantage is that a screw in a masonry wall can take a much higher load than a nail. If it’s a small frame or picture then go with a nail, anything heavy or larger than an A1 page should rather be hung with a screw or multiple nails.

What You’ll Need To Hang A Picture or Mirror

For A Nail Mount

  • Wall Nail (Hilti brand if using picture hanger)
  • Hilti Picture Hanging Tool
  • Hammer

For A Screw Mount In Wood

  • Wood Screw
  • Screwdriver
  • Drill & Small Drill Bit (Only for hard wood)

For A Screw Mount In Masonry

  • Screw & Wall Plug (Sold as a set)
  • Screwdriver
  • Drill & Drill Bit (To match wall plug, usually stated on packaging)

How To Hand The Picture Or Mirror

There are usually three methods used on frames and decor to hang, a steel loop or hook on each back side, a wire or string across the back or a single catch or hook in the middle. The single hook and the string method are the easiest to hang because you don’t have to worry about getting the picture straight or centering the picture. The double hooks are usually used on large and heavy mirrors and frames which would not hold on a single nail.

For A Nail Mount

toothpaste on picture hooks
Toothpaste on Picture Hook

If you are using a nail, measure the center of the picture and the height of the hook on the back of the picture and make a mark on the wall. If you need to use two nails then mark both spots and make sure they are level using a digital level or spirit level. An easy way to mark off a hook or multiple hooks hidden behind the frame is to put a dab of toothpaste on the tip of each hook. Place the picture in position on the wall, ensure it is level and then gently press the back onto the wall. The toothpaste will mark the wall where the nails need to be. Now use the Hilti nail tool or your fingers (be careful) to hold the nail and hammer it into place leaving a short head protruding on which to hang the picture.

nail in wall

For A Screw Mount In Wood

If you are using a screw on a wood and plaster board wall, you need to make sure you a screwing it into a wooden support column behind the plaster board. Tap the wall lightly along its length and you will hear hollow and dull sounding sections. The dull sections are the wooden beams. Alternatively there may be nail heads slightly visible along the wooden sections. Screw the screw into the wood until just a portion of the head remains on which to hang the picture. If you are screwing a screw directly into a very hard wood, it may be necessary to drill a small pilot hole into the wood first to guide the screw.

For A Screw Mount In Masonry

If you are using a screw on a masonry wall, you’ll need to make off where the screws are going to be. Now you’ll need to use a pack of masonry wall screws with plastic or wooden wall plugs. Use a drill bit slightly larger than the plug, the recommended drill bit size is usually written on the packaging. Drill a hole in the wall as deep as the screw is long. Now insert the wall plug and then screw the screw into the plug, leaving a portion of the screw sticking out on which to hang the picture. Here is a “how to” guide on installing screws in a brick or concrete wall.

Finally, hang the picture up on your newly installed nails or screws.

​ Screws in a Concrete or Masonry Wall

Michael Klements
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​ Screws in a Concrete or Masonry Wall

Using screws to hang or mount pictures, shelves and your TV on a brick or concrete wall is the best and most secure way to attach them however some preparation work is required.

You’ll need an electric drill (preferably an impact or hammer drill), a masonry drill bit  (see our drill bit selection guide) and a set of screws and plastic or wooden wall plugs.

First mark the position of your holes to be drilled with a pencil or marker. If you have a vacuum cleaner then it is easiest to get someone to hold the vacuum pipe underneath the hole while you are drilling to collect the concrete dust. The other option is to make a paper collection envelope and tape it just underneath the hole to catch the dust as shown below.

dust collection envelope

Now drill the hole. Mark off on the drill bit the depth which you need to drill to, about one and a half times the length of the wall plug. Some electric drills have a depth stopper or depth gauge installed on them.

Next press the wall plug into the hole. The plug should fit snugly and may require a light tap with the back of a screw driver or a hammer. The end of the wall plug should be flush with the wall.

Now you can screw the screw into the plug. If you are hanging a shelf or bracket then the screw will go through the bracket and then into the wall plug. As the screw is screwed into the wall plug, it expands to fill the hole and the tight fit ensures that it cannot be pulled back out of the wall proving a solid anchor on which to hang heavy items.

Which Drill Bit To Use

Michael Klements
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Which Drill Bit To Use

There are four primary types of drill bits which you will use around the house, they are used for drilling into metals, wood, brick or concrete and finally glass.

hss drill

Metal drill bits, also known as HSS or twist bits are probably the most common and versatile. They can be used to drill holes in a wide range of metals and through wood. In some cases they can be used to drill into masonry surfaces however it is not advised as it usually damages the drill bit beyond repair.

wood drill

The second type is a wood or brad point bit. The end of this drill bit features a sharp point which is used to drill a small pilot hole to keep the remainder of the drill bit centered when drilling. This drill bit can only be used for wood materials.

masonry drill

Masonry drill bits have two or four characteristic flutes on their end. The flutes assist in chiseling away at brick or concrete materials. This drill bit can only be used for masonry materials like brick, concrete or cement.

glass drill

The last type of bit you may use around your house is a glass drill bit. This drill bit looks a bit like an arrow and doesn’t have the spiral pattern down the shaft like the other three. These bits usually have sharp diamond blade tips which cut through the surface of glass or glazed ceramic and porcelain tiles.

How To Fix a Dripping Tap or Faucet

Michael Klements
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0
How To Fix a Dripping Tap or Faucet

A leaking or dripping tap or faucet is a nuisance; it wastes water, looks unsightly and the continuous dripping can be a really annoying sound. Fortunately, it is usually one of the easiest and cheapest things to fix. The problem is almost always the washer or in the case of single level mixer taps, the cartridge.

If you’re just looking for a quick fix, have a look at these hacks to temporarily stop the sound of a dripping tap.

Before starting, make sure the water supply to the tap is off. This can be done through your home’s main water supply shutoff valve or in some kitchens and bathrooms an isolator  which is fitted where the flexible pipe to the tap is joined to the piping in the wall.

Note: In some areas it is illegal to carry out unlicensed plumbing and if there is a fault, your insurance might not pay out. Check with your local authorities before carrying out any plumbing repairs on your home.

Fixing A Washer Type Dripping Tap Or Faucet

tap washer

  1. If the tap is shrouded by a cover, unscrew this first with a wrench or by hand.
  2. Next remove the tap handle, this is attached by a screw underneath the handle or in some cases by a screw under the hot or cold symbol.
  3. Now take the screw in part of the tap out, this is best done with a wrench fitted around the tap body. Use newspaper, a cloth or some masking tape on the tap surface to prevent the wrench from scratching the chrome finish.
  4. Once the tap has been taken apart, you should see a number of rubber seals and o-rings. Take any worn ones off and then go to your local hardware or plumbing store and find exact replacements.
  5. Refit the new seals and o-rings and then reverse the process to put the tap back together again.

Fixing A Cartridge Type Mixer Tap Or Faucet

ceramic tap cartridge

In the case of a mixer type tape, when the tap is taken apart, a cartridge should come out underneath the mixer head. If there is just dirt or scale in the cartridge then it is sometimes possible to clean out however it usually requires replacement. Find a replacement at your local plumbing store, they may have to order it from the tap manufacturer.

Finally turn the fixed tap to the off position and then turn the main supply back on. If the tap is still leaking then it may require re-seating in the area where the washer sits. This is best done by a plumber but most hardware stores stock re-seating kits with instructions on the packaging on how to do the repair.

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How To Fix A Dripping Tap Or Faucet

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