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How To Replace Stripped Servo Gears – Example Done On Turnigy TG9e

Michael Klements
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0
How To Replace Stripped Servo Gears – Example Done On Turnigy TG9e

If you’ve ever used servos, particularly micro servos for RC or robotics projects then you’ve likely encountered stripped servo gears. You can hear the motor turning inside the servo but the servo arm movement is limited or erratic. The good news is that this doesn’t mean that you need to throw the servo out, in fact replacement gear sets are available online for under a dollar. This guide takes you through the replacement step by step.

Once you’ve got your servo working again, why not use it to build an Arduino based solar tracker?

What You Need To Replace Stripped Servo Gears

  • Servo With Stripped Gears
  • Replacement Gear Set – Buy Here
  • Precision Screwdriver Set – Buy Here
  • White Lithium Grease (Optional) – Buy Here

How To Replace The Stripped Servo Gears

You’ll want to work at a clean work bench so that you don’t lose any of the small parts and you don’t get any dirt into the replacement set. Dirt in the gear teeth will dramatically reduce the gear life and may even burn the motor out due to sticking.

Follow the guide in the video below in order to replace your servo gears. The steps are listed below the video as well.

Replacement Steps

  1. Remove the four bottom screws
  2. Pull the top gear cover off
  3. Remove the gears and identify the stripped gear. You may want to replace just the stripped gear or all of the gears.
  4. Check inside the gear cover to make sure there are no pieces of gear teeth left stuck in the grease. These teeth may get caught in the new gears and strip them as well.
  5. Fit the replacements, starting with the gear with the finest teeth and working up towards the gear with the largest teeth. They will only fit in one order so don’t force them.
  6. The final gear, the one on which the servo arm sits, usually has a locating flat surface which turns the potentiometer. Make sure that this lines up correctly or the gear won’t go onto the shaft.
  7. Add a drop of white lithium grease onto the teeth. This is optional but it does dramatically improve the life of your new set.
  8. Replace the top gear cover.
  9. Replace the four bottom screws and screw the cover back on.
  10. Replace your servo arm and your servo is ready to be used again.

Have a look at some of our other Arduino projects.

Have you done a gear replacement on one of your servos? Was your servo slightly different inside? Let us know in the comments section below.

Chimney Fires 101

Tony Darrah
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Chimney Fires 101

Let’s be honest: of all the places in your home that you could have an out-of-control fire, the chimney seems like an “okay” spot for it. After all, aren’t hearths designed to contain fires? And aren’t they built to withstand smoke and heat?

Unfortunately, while they are usually capable of dealing with decent-sized flames in a connected fireplace, that situation is a far cry from the chimney itself being on fire. Chimney fires are destructive, costly to recover from, and potentially quite dangerous. Read on for more information about this phenomenon, including ways to prevent it from happening in your home.

Here’s a useful check list to go through every fall to prepare your home for the winter months.

Why Chimney Fires Occur

More often than not, chimney fires start when built-up creosote inside the structure ignites. Creosote is a byproduct of wood combustion; it consists mainly of tar, is tacky to the touch, and is highly flammable. Traces of the stuff can be found in smoke, and when smoke rises up from a fireplace, it mingles with cold air and water vapor.

This causes the creosote to solidify and stick to the liner (or the brickwork itself, if the chimney is unlined). Creosote is more likely to accrue in chimneys with poor ventilation, but because a buildup of creosote can cause ventilation issues, creosote essentially exists in a self-perpetuating cycle. In severe cases, all it takes is a single, errant spark to ignite all of the accumulated creosote in a chimney.

Improperly installed or maintained liners can also cause issues if they fail to contain the sparks and embers naturally produced by a hearth fire. Although the liner is designed to withstand the high temperatures of open flames and cinders, the rest of the chimney (and the surrounding areas, especially your attic) can’t handle the heat and combustion so easily. Again, a few errant sparks can be the beginning of a blazing inferno.

The Scene of the Crime

Odd as it may sound, some chimney fires go completely unnoticed. While it’s possible (and quite easy) for chimney fires to spread to a house’s roof or attic, it’s also not uncommon for them to run out of oxygen and fizzle out without ever leaving the flue. And because people generally don’t spend much time staring at their chimneys, they just don’t realize that anything is amiss. It’s not until later, when they’re having it inspected for whatever reason, that a technician informs them that they dodged a bullet.

Here are some signs of fire damage in chimneys:

  • Caked-on creosote having a “puffy” or honeycomb-like appearance.
  • Warping of metal internal mechanisms.
  • Flue tiles that are damaged, loose, or missing large chunks.
  • Visible damage to (or warping of) the chimney cap.
  • Scorch marks on the flashing or roof.
  • Cracks or smoke damage to the chimney’s mortar or brickwork.
  • Chunks or flakes of creosote outside the chimney itself.

Now, these are subtle signs that are detectable after the fact. Signs that a chimney is currently on fire include:

  • Cracking, popping, or rumbling noises coming from within the structure.
  • Thick, black smoke pouring from the top of the chimney. While some smoke is normal when a fuel source is burned in the fireplace, smoke will be noticeably darker and denser.
  • Visible flames shooting out of the top of the chimney.
  • A “burnt” smell or intense heat radiating from the chimney, especially if the fireplace is not currently in use.

If you happen to notice that your chimney is currently burning, you should immediately evacuate your home and call 911! Don’t make the mistake of assuming that the fire will put itself out; house fires are not the kind of thing that people should gamble on!

One way to help keep the fire at bay until emergency services arrive is to take a garden hose and soak your chimney’s flashing and the surrounding area with water; this will reduce the likelihood that the fire will spread to your roof. However, please only attempt this technique if you can do so without putting yourself (or others) in harm’s way!

Beat the Heat

The number one way to prevent chimney fires is to have it professionally inspected and cleaned annually. A licensed technician will be able to examine every inch of your chimney and fireplace to verify that everything is working properly. If something is amiss, it’s best to catch and solve the problem before it escalates.

Chimney caps can also be critical for fire prevention. A humble cap can do wonders for keeping debris (e.g., sticks, leaves, airborne pieces of garbage) and animals from getting inside and causing blockages. Not only will blockages contribute to creosote buildup, but the detritus itself may essentially become kindling for any fire that erupts.

Chimney fires can be destructive (and a more than a little frightening), but the good news is that they’re fairly easy to prevent. As with all other structural issues in your home, it’s absolutely critical that you pay attention and perform regular maintenance. If you suspect that something is wrong, it’s never a good idea to simply ignore the situation in hopes that it will resolve itself. So tackle problems as soon as you notice them…or hand the job over to a professional. Cleaning and repairing a chimney is a dirty job, but someone’s gotta do it!

10 Arduino Sensor Modules You Can Buy For Less Than $5

Michael Klements
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10 Arduino Sensor Modules You Can Buy For Less Than $5

When you’re stuck for ideas for your next Arduino project, and easy place to start is by looking for a sensor to learn to use. Once you’ve got the sensor up and running, you’ll be able to find an application for it and turn it into a project. Here are 10 different modules which are available on Amazon and eBay for under $5, in fact most of them are under $2.

HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Measuring Sensor

HC-SR04-Ultrasonic-Sensor

The ultrasonic distance measurement module uses ultrasonic sound waves to measure the distance between itself and an object. It is a really easy module to use and an entire Arduino library exists to assist you with programming your Arduino to operate with it. Here’s the purchase link for the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Measuring. Here’s our guide on using the ultrasonic module with your Arduino.

Speed Sensor Module

Speed Sensor Module

This tachometer allows you to measure the speed of a motor. It can be used to measure both the speed and position of a motor. Here’s the purchase link for the Speed Module.

Photoresistor Module

Photoresistor Sensor Module

The photoresistor module allows your Arduino to be triggered through a digital input when a certain level of light is detected. The light level set point can be set through the on board potentiometer. Here’s the purchase link for the Photoresistor Module. You could try build your own lightning camera trigger using this module.

Barometric Pressure Module

BMP280 Pressure Sensor Module

Barometric pressure can be used to determine the height of your robot or projectile or as a sensor on your weather or home automation system. Here’s the purchase link for the BMP280 Pressure Module.

5V Relay Module

5V Relay Module

A relay module allows you to switch and control a wide range of devices which the Arduino is not able to provide enough current to switch itself. Here’s the purchase link for the 5V Relay Module.

Sound Level Microphone Detection Module

Sound Level Microphone Detection Module

This sound level sensor module has two different outputs, one which is a set point set by the on board potentiometer which triggers the output at a certain sound level and the second provides a scaled voltage output for the instantaneous sound level. Here’s the purchase link for the Sound Level Microphone Detection Module.

Infrared Obstacle Avoidance Sensor (Pack of 4)

Infrared IR Obstacle Avoidance Sensor This module can be used to detect objects in front of the sensor between 2cm and 30cm. It is all adjusted on the module and the Arduino simply monitors its single output pin. This is one of the more useful and cheapest modules on this list as you get 4 in a pack for under $3! Here’s the purchase link for the Infrared Obstacle Avoidance.

3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope Module

3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope ModuleThis module is used to measure the acceleration and inclination of an object. It can be used to build a gesture based controller or is also commonly used for drone applications. Here’s the purchase link for the 3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope Module.

Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector

Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector

This module is a PIR motion detector which uses infrared to detect humans and pets. It can be used to turn lights on and off or create a simple alarm system. Here’s the purchase link for the Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector.

Soil Hygrometer Sensor Module For Moisture

Soil Hygrometer Moisture Sensor

In a pack of 5 for under $5, this sensor is also a bargain. These sensors can be used to automate your garden watering process or to water your indoor plants. It’s the beginning of an interesting addition to your home automation system. Here’s the purchase link for the Soil Hygrometer Module For Moisture.

Now that you’ve found a few new sensors to work with, you should have a few ideas for some new projects. If you’re still looking for new ideas, have a look at the projects in this book:

Practical Arduino Projects
Practical Arduino Projects – Available as an eBook or in Print.

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10 Arduino Modules You Can Buy For Less Than $5

Homemade Super Glue Recipe, Make Your Own Glue

Michael Klements
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1
Homemade Super Glue Recipe, Make Your Own Glue

Making your own glue is a fun and rewarding project and you’ll learn a bit about glue in process. You may want to get a few re-usable jars to keep your it in until you’re ready to use it, baby food storage jars work well and are easy to clean afterwards – buy here.

Here are a few recipes along with a brief description of what each one is best used for.

Strengthen up your repair with this neat hack, it works with both store bought and homemade super glue.

Gum Arabic Super Glue Recipe

This glue is best used to repair broken crockery, vases and china. Use a toothpick or matchstick to apply a thin coat along the broken edges and then press and hold them together. It takes around an hour to dry and cures completely in 24 hours. Small pieces will be able to be handles after about fifteen minutes. This glue keeps for about a year in a sealed jar.

  • 3 Tablespoons of Gum Arabic – Buy Here
  • 1 Tablespoon of Glycerin – Buy Here
  • 1/2 Tablespoon Water

Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl. Keep the glue in an airtight container and it will last for about a year.

Waterproof Glass Glue Recipe

This glue works well on glass and china and can also be used to attach labels onto glass, cans and jars. When using it as a label glue, warm it up slightly in a pan to make it liquid. When using it to repair china, use it in its thick gelled form.

  • 1/2 Ounce / 2 Packets of Gelatin – Buy Here
  • 3 Tablespoons Skim Milk – Buy Here
  • Mint Extract – Buy Here
  • 2 Tablespoons of Cold Water

Pour the two tablespoons of water into a mixing bowl. Sprinkle in the two packets of gelatin and allow it to stand for about an hour. Heat up the milk until it is almost boiling and add it to the gelatin mixture, stir until the gelatin has dissolved completely. Add a few drops of mint extract, this acts as a preservative and makes it last a very long time.

Waterproof Glue Recipe

This is the second waterproof glue recipe, however, this one does not use any milk. This recipe needs to be used straight away, while it is still warm. To use it again, put your jar in hot water to soften it up again. It should be applied with a thin brush and will take up to a day to fully cure.

  • 6 Tablespoons of Water
  • 1/2 Ounce / 2 Packets of Gelatin – Buy Here
  • 2 Tablespoons of White Vinegar – Buy Here
  • 1 Teaspoon of Glycerin – Buy Here

Bring the water to the boil in a saucepan. Take the water off of the heat and stir in the two packets of gelatin until it has all dissolved. Add the vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Allow it to cool a little before using it or storing it in your container.

If you enjoyed trying out this recipe, here are some other DIY recipes which you may enjoy – Make Your Own Fabric Softener, Homemade Velveeta Cheese.

7 Simple Steps To Convert A Tub Into an Upscale Walk-In Shower

Alana Douglas
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7 Simple Steps To Convert A Tub Into an Upscale Walk-In Shower

There are two kinds of bathrooms. There are the ones that impress guests and there are ones that gross out guests. When someone asks you to use your bathroom, are you stricken by a sudden wave of panic that they might notice the bathtub caked with colorful layers of mildew? Have you been wondering for a long time whether it is time to replace that run-down tub with a walk in shower?

If you are like most people, then you also have a couple of concerns. Will the tub fit? How would I even go about installing one? Where would I even start? The good news is that the process is more straightforward than it seems.

In this guide, you will learn 7 steps to transform your cramped bathtub into a beautiful, spacious walk in shower that you can be proud of.

1. Gain More Space by Manipulating the Layout With a Curvier Design

Gain More Space by Manipulating the Layout With a Curvier Design

Every bit of space counts when converting your tub. The feeling of having a spacious shower is not about how big the actual room is but instead about the atmosphere of the room itself. Architects and designers have been using the same secrets for ages to make small rooms feel spacious.

And you will be doing the same.

To start, take advantage of your tub’s sidewall (usually 36″ deep) by employing a curved shower pan with a front bow. This simple first step will augment the feeling of the actual floor space making it look approximately 20% bigger.

2. Ditch the Shower Curb to Redefine Your Showering Space

Ditch the Shower Curb to Redefine Your Showering Space

Most manufacturers build showers with 4″ to 6″ curbs. However, these curbs contribute to the shower’s cramped feeling. To make your bathroom feel more spacious and look more luxurious, get rid of the curb!

Instead, opt in for a tile shower pan with a ramped entrance. To create a rich atmosphere, take it a step further by having the shower and bathroom be on two different levels. Whether you want the shower on a lower level or a higher level is up to you and your style preference.

While this trick may seem simple, it is a staple of modern luxurious bathrooms.

3. Proper Plumbing Makes All the Difference

Proper Plumbing Makes All the Difference

When converting your tub into a walk-in shower, it is a necessity to get aesthetically pleasing and practical plumbing. For starters, upgrade any 1 ½” pipes into broader 2″ pipes for enhanced water flow. An upscale shower is not just about the looks, it is also about the experience so having proper water flow is paramount.

It is also essential to replace your low-quality shower drain with a more sleek, linearly designed one. Nothing is grosser than a shower drain clogged with hair and dirt. Invest in a high quality shower drain that prevents build up and matches your new bathroom’s style.

These small plumbing changes will help your bathroom boast its contemporary design and increases the overall showering experience.

4. Take Advantage of Walls and Floors for Added Comfort

Take Advantage of Walls and Floors for Added Comfort

Add an inexpensive floor heating system so you can shower in a cozy, soothing environment that will leave your muscles relaxed to their core. Attach a small bench to the wall for whenever you want just to sit and let the warm water drizzle on your skin.

This simple upgrade alone will transform showering from a chore into a pleasurable experience. Imagine how amazing it would feel to unwind in such a soothing shower after a long day!

5. Add Wall Storage for a Cleaner Look

Add Wall Storage for a Cleaner Look

You have seen it before: Showers littered with shampoo, soaps and conditioners dangling from tacky wall holders. And you have felt it too. The cluttered environment takes away the magic from your showering experience. Nothing looks and feels worse than a cramped shower. Go the extra mile to free up bathroom space!

The easy, cheap and upscale fix to this is to carve pockets into your walk in’s walls. By being able to store your essentials in the walls, it frees up standing space thus creating a more liberating, relaxing feel.

6. Remove Bathroom Floor Tiles for an Upscale Feel

Remove Bathroom Floor Tiles for an Upscale Feel

A clean bathroom is an impressive one while a dirty one is repelling. The problem with most tile layouts is that they gather molds, fungi, dirt, and hair between each tile. Moreover, keeping a tiled bathroom clean requires an excessive amount of upkeep that most people just do not have the time for.

Get rid of the bathroom floor tiles and instead replace it with PVC wall panels, or solid, sleek, contemporary surface units. For starters, a solid surface will spare you from having to get those deep scrubs that grimy tile surfaces usually require. Most importantly though, it will give your bathroom a clean, modern and upscale feel.

7. Express Your Unique Style with Hand-Picked Shower Glass

Express Your Unique Style with Hand-Picked Shower Glass

There’s a false notion that glass is just glass; it, in fact, comes in many different qualities and is an opportunity for you to add your own custom designs. A glass shower wall completes your walk-in shower and upscale bathroom by giving it an open-air feel. The seemingly open space makes your shower feel bigger than it actually is.

For a personal touch, you can order the glass with custom designs to add that extra bit of luxury. However, to match the modern design, it is important to get sleek or linear designs instead of tacky ones.

Conclusion

Converting your bathtub into a walk-in shower is an exciting project. You will have the opportunity to turn a dirty suffocating space into a clean, spacious, upscale room. Instead of repelling your guests, your designs will impress them. And lastly, your modern bathroom will be more practical, more efficient and your showers will not just be showers, they will be an experience.

Even though the conversion requires much upfront work, if you follow these seven steps, you will have built your own upscale walk in shower in no time.

Make Your Own Wine Cork Shadow Box

Michael Klements
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0
Make Your Own Wine Cork Shadow Box

Follow this step by step guide to make your own wine cork shadow box. It is a really easy beginners wood work project and it makes a beautiful gift. The complete shadow box takes a day or two to make, although most of the time is taken up waiting for glue or varnish to dry.

The sizes given below are as per the finished product in the pictures but you can easily adapt the sizes to suite what you have available at your local hardware store, lying around your house or to suite the size of the box you’d like to make.

Read the full step by step text instructions below or watch this instructional video on how to make your own wine cork box. Purchase links for the tools and equipment used have been included in the “what you need” list to help you out.

What You’ll Need To Make Your Wine Cork Shadow Box

Materials

  • 600 x 400 x 20mm Timber Sheet
  • 120 x 20 x 2400mm Timber Plank
  • 405 x 605 x 3mm Glass Cut To Size
  • 350 x 350mm Vinyl Text Sticker
  • Wood Glue – Buy Here
  • Picture Hanger & Screws – Buy Here
  • Optional – Clear Wood Varnish – Buy Here
  • Optional – 120 Grit Sandpaper – Buy Here

Tools

How To Make Your Wine Cork Shadow Box

Start off by measuring out a 600mm length of your timber and cutting it off with your miter box.

Measure out 600mm For The Vertical Sides

Cut a second one to make the two vertical edges of your box.

Cut The Wood With A Miter Box

Next measure and cut two 440mm lengths of timber. These need to be cut longer than 400mm as they will overlap the vertical sides once your box is assembled.

Measure And Cut 440mm Top And Bottom

Once you have your lengths cut, you need to use your Dremel rotary tool and 5mm slot attachment to cut a slot in each of the sides of your shadow box to hold the glass.

Dremel With 5mm Slot Attachment

The Dremel router table helps keep your Dremel in place at a consistent depth and assists in cutting straight lines. Position your Dremel to cut around 5mm from the front face of each plank and around 5mm deep.

Position Your Dremel To Cut 5mm Deep

Cut the slot the full length of the 600mm planks.

Cut The Slot The Full Length Of The 600mm Planks

Cut the slot in the 440mm planks leaving around 5-10mm of clearance on each end. These ends will overlap the slots you’ve cut into the 600mm planks once assembled.

Leave Some Wood At The Ends Of The 440mm Planks

Measure out the center (45mm) of the left side plank and measure 30mm down from the top.

Measure Out The Hole For The Corks

Use your drill and hole saw to drill out a 40mm hole in the side.

Use A Drill And 40mm Hole Saw

Now that you’ve finished cutting and preparing all of your wood, trial fit the pieces to make sure that all the edges and slots line up.

Trial Fit Your Pieces Of Wood

Glue the two 600mm sides onto the 600mm sides of your timber sheet. Make sure the edges are flush with the bottom of the sheet and lined up with the ends of the sheet. The slot should be at the top on the inside of the box.

Glue The Vertical Sides On

If you have clamps, clamp the edges in place until the glue has dried. Now glue the bottom 440mm bottom side into place. Line it up with the edges of the 600mm sides and ensure that the slot it lined up all the way around. Do not glue the top side into place!

Glue The Bottom Side Into Place

If you are going to varnish or colour stain your wine cork shadow box, you’ll need to varnish/stain the inside of the box now. Varnish the inside of the back sheet, the inside of the three side panels and finally the inside edge of the loose top piece. You won’t be able to get to these areas once the glass is in place.

Varnish The Inside Edges And Back Of Your Box

Once the varnish/stain has dried completely, slide the glass into place in the slots. Be gentle and don’t force it if it gets stuck as it may break. You may need to clean up some areas in the slots to get the glass to fit perfectly. Remember to clean the inside of the glass with window cleaner or rubbing alcohol before inserting it as you won’t be able to clean it later.

Slide The Glass Sheet Into Place

With the glass in place, you can glue the top side on. Line it up and make sure that the slot lines up with and covers the top edge of the glass.

Glue The Top Side Into Place

Allow the top side’s glue to dry, then varnish/stain the outside and the back of the box.

Varnish The Outside Of The Box

When the varnish/stain is dry, turn the box over. Mark the centre for the picture hanging hook and then screw it into place, it should be positioned roughly two thirds of the way up the back of the box.

Install The Picture Hanger On The Back

Finally, turn the box back over and apply the vinyl stickers. It’s a good idea to clean the glass with window cleaner before applying the sticker. It is easier to get someone to help you with the sticker so that it doesn’t wrinkle or fold over itself. Apply the sticker on one side and work your way over to the other side to avoid wrinkles and bubbles.

Apply The Vinyl Wall Sticker

You wine cork shadow box is now ready to be hung up. Put a screw into the wall and hang the box up on it. Read up how to install a screw in a masonry wall here.

We like to write the date and the initials of those who joined us for the special occasion onto the cork before popping it into the box.

Wine Cork Box With Corks In It

Have you made your own cork shadow box? Let us know in the comments section below.

A Full DIY Guide to Water Damage Restoration

Sarah Washington
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3
A Full DIY Guide to Water Damage Restoration

Plumbers and home builders spend countless hours trying to keep homes protected from water damage. Most areas inside your home are simply not built to withstand high amounts of moisture.

When water leaks occur, it causes unsightly stains on your drywall ceilings and interior surfaces. In severe cases, it can even cause the drywall to crumble and fall apart.

If you’re planning on selling your home or getting an inspection for any other reason, water damage represents a huge home inspection red flag. You will definitely want to complete the repairs beforehand.

The good news is that, with the right knowledge and tools, you can do some water damage restoration on your own. This step-by-step guide will help you accomplish a DIY repair the right way.

Step #1 – Finding the Leak

In some cases, you may notice visible signs of moisture on your ceilings or walls. There may be dripping water, sagging drywall panels or other obvious signs. In other cases, there may just be small water stains on your drywall that get larger over time.

Before you can start any actual repairs, you must find the water leak’s source. Repairs won’t do you any good if the source of the leak remains. Unfortunately, the source of a leak can be quite difficult to find. Water can travel throughout your home and cause damage in unexpected places.

To find a water leak, you should prepare yourself to do some thorough investigation and exploration.

You may need to remove some damaged drywall to help you find the leak. This is where Step #2 comes in.

Step #2 – Removing Damaged Drywall

Before you start prying away at your damaged drywall, you should always consider your safety. If the leak has been there for an extended period of time, there could be a significant amount of mold inside or on-top of the drywall. You should stop and call a professional if a large amount of mold is present.

In cases where there is only a small amount of mold, you can safely remove the drywall as long as you take precautions such as safety goggles, a dust mask and gloves.

Before you begin, place tarps and drop-cloths down to catch the drywall dust and debris that you’ll create during the removal. This will help to protect other interior surfaces and make the clean-up process much easier.

Take a good look at the drywall to determine the severity of the water damage. Drywall will sag or crumble when it is full of water. You can removed all the compromised portions with a wrecking bar, the claw of your hammer or by hand.

If your drywall panels are just stained and not structurally compromised, you may be able to repair them by simply cutting out the stained area. You can use a keyhole saw to cut a rectangular or square-shaped hole around the stains. Then, you can use another drywall piece to patch the opening.

Step #3: Performing the Repairs

If you just need to do a patch repair to replace stained areas of your drywall, start with these mini-steps:

  1. Measure the area of wall that you cut out from the previous step.
  2. Cut a replacement piece of drywall that is 2” longer and wider than those measurements.
  3. Lay your replacement piece on a flat surface (backside up).
  4. Measure 1” from all edges and make a pencil line.
  5. Use a utility knife and a straightedge to cut the backside paper and gypsum material. DO NOT CUT THE FRONT-FACING PAPER LAYER!
  6. Peel away the gypsum and backside layers with a putty knife.

For openings between 6 and 12 inches:

  1. Drill two small holes in your replacement board.
  2. Pull some string through the holes and tie the ends to a stick.
    1. Try to leave about 8 inches of string between the stick and board.
    2. The front of the board is considered the “stick side.”
    3. The stick is used to hold your patch in place.
  3. Carefully twist the stick until it applies pressure to the rear of the replacement board.
  4. Smoothly apply cement adhesive around the edges of the board.
  5. Place the patch into the drywall hole while positioning it so that the adhesive grips the area around the rear of the hole.
  6. Turn the stick in the clockwise direction to increase the pressure and ensure the board holds firmly until the adhesive dries.
  7. After the cement adhesive dries completely, apply joint compound and smooth out the area.
  8. Allow the area to thoroughly dry again, then sand down any high spots.

For openings smaller than 6 inches:

  1. Apply joint compound around the drywall opening.
  2. Insert the patch.
  3. Use a putty knife to work the edge of the paper into the compound.
  4. Feather the compound edges so that it will dry effectively.
  5. Use fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the area before applying a second layer of compound to finish.

If you still need help, check this page out to learn more about patching drywall like a pro.

If the water stain on your drywall is over 12 inches, you should consider the total replacement of the panel. Large portions of drywall should always be anchored to the ceiling joists or wall studs.

If the area you remove exposes a joist or stud that will allow you to anchor your patch, you should be fine by doing that. If there is not joist or stud available, replacing the entire panel may be your best option.

Removing an entire sheet:

  1. Remove the drywall panel and drywall screws that anchored the panel to the studs or joists.
  2. Get accurate measurements of the opening.
  3. If your measurements require a custom-sized panel, use a drywall saw or utility knife to cut a patch to fit the opening.
  4. Align the new drywall panel with your studs or joists.
  5. Secure the new panel to the studs or joists with drywall screws.
  6. Apply joint tape at all the exposed seams.
  7. Apply joint compound over the tape with a putty knife.
  8. Allow the compound to dry and then sand down until all the seams are flush with the panels.

Step #4: Priming and Painting

Before you start priming, make sure that the area is well ventilated. Open windows and use fans if necessary.

With a large paintbrush or paint roller, apply interior primer to the entire wall or ceiling surface. After the primer dries, apply the interior paint in square 6-foot sections. Use a continuous pattern of overlapping “W” strokes while you move from right to left and then back to spread evenly. Then use a small paintbrush to fill-in the areas where your roller couldn’t reach.

If necessary, apply another coat on the entire surface.

Water damage restoration can be a long and frustrating process, but following these steps will help you save big money by doing-it-yourself!

Make Your Own Jute Rope Rug

Michael Klements
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Make Your Own Jute Rope Rug

Here’s a guide to making your own quick and easy jute rope rug with a few inexpensive materials. This is a great hour or two weekend project, perfect for a rainy day. Take your time with the glue process and you’ll have a sturdy rug which will last in even a busy corridor or entrance.

If you enjoy this project, here’s a no sew rope basket which can also be made from a scrap piece of natural fire rope.

What You Need To Make Your Own Jute Rope Rug

  • A Piece of Cloth Large Enough to Fit Under the Finished Rug, An Old T-Shirt Works Well
  • Jute/Natural Fibre Rope (14mmx20m) – Buy Here
  • Construction Adhesive – Buy Here
  • Scissors – Buy Here

What You Need For Your Jute Rope Rug

How To Assemble Your Jute Rope Rug

Unravel the ends of the rope carefully and add a bit of adhesive to the inside. Press it together firmly until it is secure. This prevents fraying. Put a lot of glue around the end of the rope, you don’t want it to work loose over time.

End Preparation

On a large flat surface, place the piece of cloth down. Adhere the one end of the rope tightly to itself.

Starting The Rug

Draw a small spiral with the glue in the centre of the cloth. Press the coiled rope down onto the adhesive.

Glue it Bigger

Add adhesive to both the edges of the rope and the cloth as you are coiling the rope up.

Keep Adding GLue And Rolling

Repeat this process until all of the rope is used up.

Roll To The End

Cut off the excess cloth to finish up the rug and use the adhesive to adhere any loose parts around the edges for a better finish. Allow the glue to dry overnight before using it.

Trim The Excess

Trim The Excess 32

Find a suitable place or person to give this RUGged mat to, it makes the perfect gift.

Completed Rug

This post is based on Jute Rope Rug by Emile09080 and has been modified and used under the Creative Commons License CC-BY-NC-SA 2.5.

Have you made your own rug? Let us know in the comments section below.

10 Invasive Plants You Need To Avoid Planting In Your Garden

Katie Jones
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10 Invasive Plants You Need To Avoid Planting In Your Garden

As a garden lover, we know you placed a lot of effort into maintaining and beautifying your garden. Maintaining your luscious green grass, healthy plants, and alluring flowers requires a lot of effort; which is why you must be careful in keeping out invasive and dangerous plants which might destroy the green paradise you have created. Did you know that there are plants which may look pleasing but can actually destroy your garden? Looks can be deceiving, and with these 10 plants this is no exception. In this post, we’ve listed 10 common plants which you need to avoid to keep your garden safe from invasion and damage.

Make your garden more appealing, find out how to attract butterflies to your garden.

invasive creeper

1. Bamboo

Although a bamboo can give your backyard an exotic look, there are measures that you as a gardener need to take to control it. It is in the nature of bamboo to grow and spread rapidly throughout their surroundings. This is what you need to avoid.

If you happen to have bamboo in your backyard, you need to apply plastic or concrete root barriers to prevent its rhizomes from spreading. There are types of bamboo that grow less rapidly and aren’t too invasive. These species include the Bambusa, Borinda, Chusquea, Fargesia and Otatea. The following bamboo types are extremely invasive: Chimonobambusa, Indocalamus, Pleioblastus and Sasa. Of course, if you don’t want to go through the hassle of making barriers then it’s best to avoid planting bamboo.

2. Japanese Stiltgrass

An unstoppable grass that originated from the Eastern part of Asia is the Japanese Stiltgrass. This plant spreads widely and above the ground through seeds and rhizomes. When left unchecked, it creates a grass web trap, causing the other plants around it to starve. Keep in mind that the more you dig the grass out, the more it grows. The reason for this is that the seeds of this plant grow best in loose soil.

3. Purple Loosestrife

It makes sense to grow a purple Loosestrife in your yard as it treats intestinal problems but you need to take a look at the bigger picture. This plant has “Marsh Monster” and “Beautiful Killer” as its nicknames which are already a red flag itself. Purple Loosestrifes invade other vegetation and  can also spread very fast. If you find these grasses growing in your yard, dig it out and burn the remains.

4. Chinese Wisteria

A very pretty looking vine which deceives a lot of homeowners. It has a similar appearance to its cousin the Japanese Wisteria which can grow up at least 2 feet in diameter; making it easier to wrap itself tightly around the trees. This wrapping habit is enough to kill some tree species and other plants. If you are able to find this in your garden, remove it immediately from the trees, arbours, and pergolas; and then spray it with a systemic herbicide for a sure kill.

5. Trumpet Vine

Another nosy plant you must avoid in your garden is the trumpet vine. Also known as the trumpet creeper, it can creep up trees and walls tightly. Removing this plant is also a nightmare since it can send shoots very far from the main plant — making it hard to control. Attempting to cut the vine is just a temporary solution. The best way to get rid of this plant is to firmly dig up its mother plant and shoots to clear it from any blooms.

6. Mint (Mentha)

Everyone uses mint to add flavour to their food; plus the fact that it also smells good. However, mint is actually invasive and can cover your whole garden. Avoid this kind of plant if you do not have enough time to take care of it. You can still grow this plant but be sure to place it in a container and keep it in a sunny window indoors. Keep it away from any other garden plants.

7. Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera Japonica)

These vines commonly cover the ground, wetlands, roadsides, and forest floors. It can climb for more than 80 feet. If you want to get rid these in your garden, you can pull it out using a shovel. Destroy all of its remains so that it won’t grow again. Never buy it unless you have plenty of time to trim the vines and avoid it from enveloping your garden and home.

8. English Ivy (Hedera Helix L.)

They grow fast on walls, can reach over your fence, and even cover your ground. It also climbs and chokes your trees. What makes it worse is that it can spread bacterial leaf scorch which is a plant disease that kills maples, oaks, and other native plants.

You can kill English ivy by prying the vines away from the tree or wall. If it is on the ground, you can dump several inches of mulch and leave it there. Many plant lovers love to grow these for decorative purposes; however, they forget how destructive it is because of its rapid growth. Save yourself the trouble and avoid this one in your garden.

9. Belladonna

The common name for this plant is ‘deadly nightshade’ which is a hint that you should stay away from it. Don’t be tricked by its pretty purple flowers and green-rich leaves because it’s actually harmful and toxic. Belladonna has toxic black berries which can be mistaken as an edible fruit by your kids or pets.

10. Mimosa Tree

It’s easy for homeowners to find this tree aesthetically pleasing due to its plumed fern leaves and pink flowers, but you should really think twice if you’re considering to plant this tree in your garden. The mimosa tree is very invasive and can easily spread its seedlings not only in your garden but to your neighbours as well.

If you have any of these plants mentioned, its best to start avoiding them. You should also be vigilant with the plants already growing in your garden.

If you’re looking for alternatives for these plants, have a look at these six plants which naturally repel mosquitoes.

Visit www.drdripplumbing.com.au for more information blogs on home improvement and plumbing.

Make Your DIY Work Easier With 7 Power Tools

Alyssa Winters
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Make Your DIY Work Easier With 7 Power Tools

One of the many reasons why DIY is widely favored nowadays is because of convenience. Without the actual aid of experts and professionals, anyone could finish a project such as building, repairing and reconstructing. But, DIY projects do not only focus on these aspects. There are quite a lot more that you could do with DIY.

Accordingly, executing these projects requires the use of certain tools. These tools, however, need not be in full sight. While completing your set can be very beneficial on your end, there are only specific tools that you need to get you going. These are what is known to be the power tools of today since almost all DIY projects can be easily done with the use of these things.

1. Nail Gun

When you are working with metals and woods, the first power tool that you will be needing is a nail gun. Framing together sides and parts of your materials entail the use of nails. Now, having a nail gun in your toolbox will certainly make your job a lot easier.

Aside from being handy and portable, you can easily achieve a precise nail work with a nail gun. In addition, you will save a lot of time and effort by simply having a nail gun to do the nail work for you.

2. Paint Sprayer

DIY projects always have something to do with painting works. If you are really that good and confident in handling paints and brushes, then you could do the job manually. However, it is seen that a painting work would be much easier and convenient when you utilize paint sprayers. Moreover, paint sprayers can help you arrive at a very neat and flat painting job. Hence, having a good paint sprayer in your DIY toolbox is an advantage on your end.

3. Miter Saw

If most of your DIY projects will require cutting of raw materials, especially wood – then a miter saw is a great tool to obtain. This power tool can accurately cut pieces of any raw material. In the recent times, it is considered to be one of the greatest hacks of many carpenters due to its efficiency of cutting wood.

Consequently, this is also the reason why the availability of miter saw in the market today is quite apparent. Perhaps a top miter-saw buying guide will help you locate the most appropriate one for your unique needs and projects.

4. Cordless Drill

A cordless power drill is the most frequently-used tool in almost all DIY projects. Alongside the convenience and portability of being a cordless equipment, power drills are very much efficient in drilling holes to different kinds of materials.

While it is quite pricey than a corded type, a cordless drill will help you save much time and effort with your DIY projects.

5. Circular Saw

There are times that you will deal certain materials that are difficult to cut. Metals especially lumber are a real challenge to manage which is why circular saws are highly recommended to be a must-have power tool. Although a circular saw pretty much does the same job as what a miter saw would do, the design, output, and type of cut are the things that set a circular saw apart from a miter saw.

It would bereally time efficient if you have a circular saw when you are doing DIY projects.

6. Band Saw

DIY projects that usually deal with smaller pieces of wood are used with aband saw. A band saw is pretty much similar to atable saw. The only difference is that band saws are much better to utilize when dealing smaller pieces of wood. In addition, this saw is typically used to cut materials in the middle if you want equal sizes of materials.

7. Sander

Before you reach the painting job in a DIY project, sanding your subject is usually required for a smooth finish. Imagine painting a material with uneven surfaces and edges, certainly, it won’t come out as a very astonishing product. (not unless of course if it is done on purpose!) Hence, a sander is highly recommended if you are to smoothen the surfaces of your product.

In conclusion, having these power tools will enable you to finish DIY projects in no time. While other DIY projects may require additional tools and equipment, owning these 7 tools will help you save much time and effort.

If you found this article useful, have a look at these 10 Essential Tools For Beginner DIY’ers, or transform your workshop with these 5 projects.

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